Surfing is real private. It's a solo, loner sport.
That's what I think people sense when they get hooked by surfing - hooked by their relationship with the ocean. All of a sudden, they're part of something that's bigger than them.
People can do whatever they want if they just set their heart to it, and just never give up, and just go out there and do it.
The aloha spirit is real simple. You give and you give and you give . . . and you give from here (the heart), until you have nothing else to give.
Surfing's the source. Can change your life. Swear to god
It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.
Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true.
The whole surf culture is starting to embrace women a lot more.
It looks easy, like surfing, but surfing is hard too.
Thank God for a few free waves.
I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.
Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.
A week of sweeping fogs has passed over and given me a strange sense of exile and desolation. I walk round the island nearly every day, yet I can see nothing anywhere but a mass of wet rock, a strip of surf, and then a tumult of waves.
Out of water, I am nothing.
Surfing is attitude dancing.
Now that I'm older, I like almost anything that's done well, even surf music and instrumentals; I really enjoyed the interviews with the Ventures in your magazine.
Waves are toys from God.
Surfing is like golf: You're always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It's magic.
Since social media has become so big, body image has taken a downward spiral. Especially in surfing, because we're in bikinis all day, we're really critiqued. After a competition, social media will just be talking about who looked better in a bikini instead of who surfed better. It's not even about the results anymore, so much is body. And that's really frustrating at times.
I've been surfing almost as long as I've been playing music.
I love this site. It was lovingly hand-shaped it. Your soul transformed this into this art. It was perfect. I have tried to create another equal to it... but to no avail, so I will just have to paint the Sistine Chapel.
I read the papers, I surf the Web. At the beginning of the year, I try to see at least two episodes of every show on our network. Am I surfing? All the time. I'm aware of the landscape. I'm a competitor, so I have to know whom I'm competing with.
In this media-drenched, data-rich, channel-surfing, computer-gaming age, we have lost the art of doing nothing, of shutting out the background noise and distractions, of slowing down and simply being alone with our thoughts.
I love surfing, rock climbing, cycling - all that stuff. But it's just amazing that I can inspire people with my running. It's humbling, really.
Think about the way you go surfing on the Internet - you go from one thing to another. You can't really concentrate. I can't sit and read 10 pages on my computer. You'll read and then all of a sudden part of your brain is like, "What about that? ...You're not reading the whole book. You're reading fragments. Even though I think it's bad, I think it's interesting too, because that's the way my brain works.
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