The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.
What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.
My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'
As long as I'm still surfing wherever I am, I'll always be happy.
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