It's hard for me to describe the joy I felt after I stood up and rode wave in for the first time after the attack. I was incredibly thankful and happy inside. The tiny bit of doubt that would sometimes tell me you'll never surf again was gone in one wave.
An FBI agent ought to be able to surf the net and look for sites that instruct people how to make bombs.
I got to learn to surf.
Well, maybe surf one time; I think it would be fun to catch a wave just once.
You can't TV surf without coming across an Andy of Mayberry episode where you've just got to watch Don as Barney. And that's why I put Don in several of my movies.
Adventure Bay is a convenient and safe place for any number of ships to take in wood and water during the summer months: but in the winter, when the southerly winds are strong, the surf, on all parts of the shore, makes the landing exceedingly troublesome.
Wildness and silence disappeared from the countryside, sweetness fell from the air, not because anyone wished them to vanish or fall but because throughways had to floor the meadows with cement to carry the automobiles which advancing technology produced. Tropical beaches turned into high-priced slums where thousand-room hotels elbowed each other for glimpses of once-famous surf not because those who loved the beaches wanted them there but because enormous jets could bring a million tourists every year - and therefore did.
Now that I'm older, I like almost anything that's done well, even surf music and instrumentals; I really enjoyed the interviews with the Ventures in your magazine.
Well I'm a longtime AOL subscriber and I love the whole thing. I'm an email junkie and I love the internet, though 7th Heaven doesn't give me much free time to surf these days.
The kids called me King of the Surf Guitar. I surfed sunup to sundown.
Never Have Your Dog Stuffed is really advice to myself, a reminder to myself not to avoid change or uncertainty, but to go with it, to surf into change.
You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.
Thank God for a few free waves.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
It's all about where your mind's at
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.
It's not tragic to die doing something you love.
Surfing's the source. Can change your life. Swear to god
I could not help concluding, that this man felt the most supreme pleasure, while he was driven on, so fast and so smoothly, by the sea.
There is not one right way to ride a wave.
It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.
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