In L.A., I like to surf. I went through a phase - I was surfing four days a week. I'm still not good at it; I still spend most of my time falling.
If you recognize a face while surfing through 200 channels, you will stop and listen. Celebrities give a positive aura and people like them. Their message appeals to people.
I love fishing and surfing, and I work out every day.
Sometimes things just happen. Sometimes surfing this bank from Snapper to Kirra, sometimes you don't even think what you're doing but you do it anyway ... You get to the end of a wave and go, what did I do? Sometimes you go into a totally different state of mind.
What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.
All my songs were solo voices. Just me singing. In fact, that was the gimmick - no gimmick. Just singing straight with not too much background.
I swim. I do a little bit of surfing. I would say I'm a beginner at surfing. I run. I cycle. I play a little bit of soccer.
My education and background thoroughly inform my writing
I never paid much attention to being Jewish when I was a kid. In fact, I'd say my religion was more surfing than Judaism - that's what I spent most of my time doing.
I liken feedback to the effect of when you go surfing; you can get pummeled by a wave, but if you balance the forces right, you can have a dandy ride ... that's pretty much what feedback is.
Look, if you can indulge in your passion, life will be far more interesting than if you're just working. You'll work harder at it, and you'll know more about it. But first you must go out and educate yourself on whatever it is that you've decided to do - know more about kite-surfing than anyone else. That's where the work comes in. But if you're doing things you're passionate about, that will come naturally.
I read one or two other books which gave me a background in mathematics other than logic.
Creating the fictional background for a game world isn't significantly different from creating a background for fiction.
I got into law school to supplement my business background. I'm not planning to practice law.
It was like a big family, since so many of us brought our kids. We all went surfing. It was so relaxed and easy.
If you look at the media coverage and surfing magazines, the one thing that really stands out is how hard it is to find a photo of a girl in a magazine unless it's an ad. It's kind of strange, still to this day. You see these great looking girls surfing so well that are amazingly talented... They are finally the total package.
I loved going surfing down on Venice Beach. Id go out with a board under my arm and think, I cant do that in Cranhill.
If there was no such thing as barrels I probably wouldn't even surf.
I've tried crowd surfing but the radiating light that surrounds me kept sending me floating into the heavens. Goddamn I'm beautiful
It was all balance. But then, she already knew that from surfing.
Have you ever been surfing? Imagine you're on your surfboard now, waiting for the big one to come. Get ready to get carried with that energy. Now, here it comes. That's empathy. No words - just being with that energy. When I connect with what's alive in another person, I have feelings similar to when I'm surfing.
I can be surfing the exact same wave and then sometimes something will just set off, even if I'm riding the same board the whole time. Something will just set off and it just feels like you can push just that extra bit harder.
It's impossible to imagine what Australia would be like without surfing.
When you're surfing you're not thinking about where you parked the car or what you're going to do when you grow up or what you're going to buy when you've got lots of money. You know, you're just there. You're in the moment. And I think in a contemporary world, that's a rare privilege.
I love sailing and water sports; whether it's water skiing, body boarding or surfing or simply swimming in the ocean.
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