Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.
It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.
It's all about where your mind's at
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
Well I'm always working on constantly everything. I never take the approach that I'm doing as well as I possibly can... I always think there's more and I think if you don't have that, you are not driven to be better.
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
There are so many different elements to surfing. Small waves, big waves, long boards, short boards. This makes it a sport you can share with people. It's not just a solitary thing - it's become a family thing, too. It's about exercising and passing something on from father to son, and from mother to daughter.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
J-Bay displays the best of people’s surfing.
I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of getting a single with nature.
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