Surfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.
You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.
My background was art school, documentary director and surfer with a keen interest in thrilling acts of life threatening stupidity.
Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.
I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
I'm more of like a recreational surfer, not a consist surfer. Some people get out every week or every day.
It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.
Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Surfers are the ‘throw-aheads’ of mankind, not the dregs; they aren’t the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists and they are leading the way to where man ultimately wants to be. The act of the ride is the epitome of ‘be here now’, and the tube ride is the most acute form of that. Which is: your future is right ahead of you, the past is exploding behind you, your wake is disappearing, your footprints are washed from the sand. It’s a non-productive, non-depletive act that’s done purely for the value of the dance itself. And that is the destiny of man.
Across all countries and cultures surfers are connected not by nationality, religion, politics, age … but by their experience riding waves. This is a powerful experience both in the waves themselves and inside each surfer.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
So we live in an accelerating possibility curve. Perhaps we can't control it, but we can learn to ride it like a surfer on a wave or a bird on a thermal, to use its power to take us where we want to go - to live in uncertainty and yet act with confidence.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
The only thing surfers have in common with the rest of America is they're unemployed and they love crystal meth.
I look for a good story. Usually the best stories are the ones that are unbelievably true. 'Soul Surfer' is one of those stories.
When I'm not working, I dress like a surfer. I look like I'm going to come into your house and clean your pool.
I`ve always thought of him [Barack Obama] and from conversations know him to be a guy who takes the long view, who doesn`t get too high, doesn`t get too low and seizes the opportunities when they`re there and knows how to ride the wave. I ascribe that to Hawaii. He`s a body surfer, so he knows how to get on the wave. He knows just the right time.
All surfers are joined by one ocean.
Surfing also teaches quality . I will wager that it is not the number of waves that makes a session memorable for any given surfer, but that one beautiful wave that he or she waited for … and rode all the way the way to shore.
I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!
I'm a channel surfer when it comes to radio, a little bit of everything.
The energy that moves across the ocean connects all surfers who ride it.
I'm a really big surfer, and I have also been playing a ton of volleyball on the beach on the weekends.
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